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Termidor SC - Questions & Answers

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Termidor SC
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Displaying 71 to 76 (of 76 questions)
  • Asked by Mark from Bryson City, Nc
    09/22/2014
    Q
    Treating around perforated tiled and white rocked perimeter.
    As we were building our house about 3 years ago, the inspector suggested that we add a second perforated tile (there was already a French Drain 7-8ft deeper at the walk-out basement floor height) right next to the foundation just below the surface (4-12") and fill the whole area with white rock. I really don't want to dig all of this up to apply the Termidor. Can I just trench down into the white rock a few inches and apply the Termidor next to the foundation as usual or do I need to get all the way down to the dirt? If the Termidor worked it way into the perf tile, would it still be effective? The construction is 12" filled block on a mono-slab and there is about 8" of block exposed before any wood, so I think I would see any tunnels if termites were in the area.
    A
    Termidor SC is made to bind to soil molecules. When Termidor SC is put in the ground as a soil treatment, it will last for at least 10 years. Although, it is a little different when it is applied to porous surfaces such as rocks. Porous surfaces will actually absorbe the active ingredient meaning that it would only last a few months. Therefore, we would recommend that you remove the rocks and be sure to treat the soil below according to the label instructions.
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    0 of 1 people found this answer helpful.
  • Asked by Brian from Los Angeles
    09/06/2013
    Q
    What are the best treatment for dry wood termites on stained decks & fencing?
    A

    Both Termidor SC (fipronil for termites) and Bora-Care will work, but Bora-Care is typically the better one to use for this situation. Termidor SC is not a wood treatment product, so for it to work you have to drill holes EXACTLY where the termites are and it has to touch the termites to work.  If you miss where they are, it will not work.  Also, Termidor SC does not really have any residual in the wood, so after you treat inside the wood with Termidor SC and it dries, that wood is exposed for future termite and beetle infestations.

    Termidor: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html

    Bora-Care is usually the preferred choice if most of the wood is exposed and it is raw wood you are treating, meaning it is not painted, stained, or sealed, it is just normal wood.  Bora-Care is made only for wood, and you do not have to know exactly where the termites are for it to work which is a plus.  Bora-Care is sprayed evenly over all exposed surfaces of the wood and actually penetrates through the entire piece of wood.  When the termites in the wood try to consume the wood after it has been treated, they ingest the Bora-Care with the wood and die.  No matter where they are in the wood the Bora-Care will find them as long as you treated the exposed wood that you can see.  The other main benefit is that Bora-Care stays in the wood forever, so you will not have to worry about termites or beetles infesting the wood that you treated ever again.

    Bora-Care:  http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/boracare-p-100.html

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    3 of 4 people found this answer helpful.
  • Asked by Ida from Albuquerque, Nm
    05/23/2014
    Q
    If termites are coming into a room through a vent opening, how should Termidor be applied?
    A

    You will need to determine what kind of termite you have for us to direct you on the best treatment method. Bora-Care is usually the preferred choice if you are dealing with Drywood Termites and if most of the wood is exposed and it is raw wood you are treating, meaning it is not painted, stained, or sealed, it is just normal wood.  Bora-Care is made only for wood, and you do not have to know exactly where the termites are for it to work which is a plus.  Bora-Care is sprayed evenly over all exposed surfaces of the wood and actually penetrates through the entire piece of wood.  When the termites in the wood try to consume the wood after it has been treated, they ingest the Bora-Care with the wood and die.  No matter where they are in the wood the Bora-Care will find them as long as you treated the exposed wood that you can see.  The other main benefit is that Bora-Care stays in the wood forever, so you will not have to worry about termites or beetles infesting the wood that you treated ever again.

    If you have subterranean termites in your home, we recommend doing the liquid treatment as outlined in the "How To Do A Termite Treatment" article and then inside the home where you know you have the termites you will treat them directly by injecting the Termidor into the wall where the termites actively are or cutting a hole into the wall and spraying on the wood or however you can get the product to the termites. It only needs to touch a few termites to work.  If you do not know where the termites are actively infesting we do have a great article here on how to do your own inspection.

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    3 of 3 people found this answer helpful.
  • Asked by Roger from Miami, Florida
    10/06/2013
    Q
    Termidor SC sprayed on attic trusses
    I have drywood termites in my home. A large national company wants to spray all the wood roof trusses in my attic with Termidor SC. Is this a feasible and effective treatment for drywood termites? Is this treatment safe for my family's health? Would the same attic spray application using Timbor be a more effective and safer solution?
    A

    Termidor is only labeled to be used inside when treating an active infestion but it does not penetrate into the wood.  While we cannot comment on what a professional company is going to do, when treating for an active drywood termite infestation you must treat it directingly.

    Both Termidor SC (fipronil for termites) and Bora-Care will work, but Bora-Care is typically the better one to use for this situation. Termidor SC is not a wood treatment product, so for it to work you have to drill holes EXACTLY where the termites are and it has to touch the termites to work.  If you miss where they are, it will not work.  Also, Termidor SC does not really have any residual in the wood, so after you treat inside the wood with Termidor SC and it dries, that wood is exposed for future termite and beetle infestations.

    Bora-Care is usually the preferred choice if most of the wood is exposed and it is raw wood you are treating, meaning it is not painted, stained, or sealed, it is just normal wood.  Bora-Care is made only for wood, and you do not have to know exactly where the termites are for it to work which is a plus.  Bora-Care is sprayed evenly over all exposed surfaces of the wood and actually penetrates through the entire piece of wood.  When the termites in the wood try to consume the wood after it has been treated, they ingest the Bora-Care with the wood and die.  No matter where they are in the wood the Bora-Care will find them as long as you treated the exposed wood that you can see.  The other main benefit is that Bora-Care stays in the wood forever, so you will not have to worry about termites or beetles infesting the wood that you treated ever again
    Was this answer helpful to you?   Yes No
    50 of 51 people found this answer helpful.
  • Asked by Joyce from Ft Lauderdale, Fl
    05/30/2015
    Q
    If Termidor is sprayed on untreated wood, does it prevent termites? If so, for how long? What is best way to treat 4"x 4" post with dry wood termites to kill and prevent future infestation?
    A
    Termidor SC (fipronil for termites) and Bora-Care will work, but Bora-Care is typically the better one to use for this situation. Termidor SC is not a wood treatment product, so for it to work you have to drill holes EXACTLY where the termites are and it has to touch the termites to work.  If you miss where they are, it will not work.  Also, Termidor SC does not really have any residual in the wood, so after you treat inside the wood with Termidor SC and it dries, that wood is exposed for future termite and beetle infestations.

    Termidor: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html

    Bora-Care is usually the preferred choice if most of the wood is exposed and it is raw wood you are treating, meaning it is not painted, stained, or sealed, it is just normal wood.  Bora-Care is made only for wood, and you do not have to know exactly where the termites are for it to work which is a plus.  Bora-Care is sprayed evenly over all exposed surfaces of the wood and actually penetrates through the entire piece of wood.  When the termites in the wood try to consume the wood after it has been treated, they ingest the Bora-Care with the wood and die.  No matter where they are in the wood the Bora-Care will find them as long as you treated the exposed wood that you can see.  The other main benefit is that Bora-Care stays in the wood forever, so you will not have to worry about termites or beetles infesting the wood that you treated ever again.

    Bora-Care:  http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/boracare-p-100.html

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    11 of 12 people found this answer helpful.
  • Asked by Marcus from Las Vegas, Nv
    08/23/2014
    Q
    Identifying the foundation of a typical house
    I am trying to understand the basics of identifying the foundation perimeter of a typical single family house. Here in the desert, houses are built primarily from wood and stucco, and almost all newer houses seem to be constructed in a similar way. One area I find confusing is the recess that is commonly created for the front entrance. In most houses I see around here, if one is standing at the front entrance, one is standing under the roof. Should termite treatment be applied around this recess or should it hug the exterior walls of the house as well as the front entrance door as closely as possible? In the case of an attached garage, I have read in the Q&A that it usually does not sit on top of the main foundation, but is just like a concrete slab patio, so one should drill holes along the walls that have living space behind it. However, all the attached garages I see around here are marked with the imprint "Tension Slab - Do not Penetrate". Doesn't that mean that one should not drill anywhere on the garage floor?
    A
    No matter how the house is constructed, the perspective area of treatment against the foundation should be treated either drilling into the attached concrete or trenched in the soil. It is recommended to drill into the concrete floor of an attached garage along the attached walls adjacent to the interior of the structure and across the garage floor where it meets a concrete driveway. The objective is to make sure all areas around the structure are properly treated so that when termites enter they will come into contact with the product that you apply.
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    2 of 2 people found this answer helpful.
Displaying 71 to 76 (of 76 questions)